Backpacking the Albanian Alps: Europe’s Hidden Gem

“Albania?!” That’s pretty much the response I got from my friends and family when I told them I’d be making my way through this Balkan nation. And I’ll admit, prior to my trip, I knew nothing about Albania; I had no preconceived notion about the country and had no idea what to expect. 

Why Albania? Well, I was in North Macedonia on vacation and saw Albania was just a few hours’ drive from the city I was in, so I figured I’d make my way through. Not to mention, Albania, along with North Macedonia, are two of the few countries that accept American tourists during this Covid pandemic. 

After a quick Google search of things to do in Albania I saw a glimpse of the alps and was sold. 

How to visit the Albanian Alps

A visit to the Albanian Alps can be arranged either two ways: yourself or through a tour provider. Out of convenience, I opted for a tour. I went with North Albania Tours, which was great. North Albania Tours offers a number of tours through the alps, with their most popular being the 3-Day Theth and Valbonë Hiking Tour. This self-guided tour costs 150 Euros and includes transportation to and from Shkodër, accommodation, and food. I was coming from Tirana, so I paid a bit extra for a taxi to take me to Shkodër the day of the tour and back to Tirana after the tour. Because the tour is self-guided, it doesn’t feel like a tour at all, you’re really just paying for transportation and accommodation, which is great for the “I hate tours crowd.” At the same time, you can pay for a tour guide if you wish, but it isn’t really necessary here. 

What to expect during the tour

Day 1:

I departed Tirana at 6:00 AM for Shkodër. After the two-hour journey, I quickly made my way onto the mini bus that was waiting for me and departed for Theth. We arrived in Theth shortly before noon and I was dropped off at my guesthouse. 

From here, you’re on your own to explore. Theth is self-explanatory, just follow the trail and it will lead you into Theth National Park. This is the highlight of the trip and a true gem. Theth offers you the chance to see real authentic village life in Albania, while experiencing some of the most scenic views on earth! I spent much of the day by the river just relaxing.

There is also a neat waterfall you can hike to.

The locals and domestic tourists here are extremely friendly.

Most of my interactions went something like 

Them: “My friend! Where you come from?”

Me: “USA.”

Them: “Very nice! You come. Café café.” 

I met a family along the way that prepared some snacks and coffee for the rest of my journey. 

My guesthouse was amazing and the family there was incredible. Did I mention she was a great cook too?

Day 2:

The next day is at your own speed. I woke up around 7:00, had a quick breakfast, and began my journey from Theth to Valbonë. The hike takes around 6 hours, so make sure you load up on water and snacks! The trail is easy to follow and is marked with red arrows. 

I arrived at my guesthouse around 1, dropped my bags off and had a quick lunch before heading out.

To be honest, there isn’t much to see in Valbonë, so you’ll spend a lot of your time relaxing and walking around. 

Valbonë has a lot of abandoned structures, which make for some neat photos. There is also a river that runs along the town you can relax at.

 Like Theth, the locals are quite friendly.  

Day 3:

The final day is easy going, you’ll take a bus to the ferry that takes you along Komani Lake. This scenic ride, which takes you back to Shkodër, is about 3 hours and a great way to end the tour. 

Overall thoughts?

I highly recommend this tour, especially if you’re looking for something off the beaten track in Albania. The alps were some of the most beautiful I’ve ever seen. If Patagonia and the Karakol region in Kyrgyzstan are tier 1, the alps in Albania are a solid tier 2, just slightly under them. Overall I’d give it a 9/10.