El Chaltén: Argentina’s Trekking Capital

El Chaltén is small backpacker town located in the Patagonia region of Argentina, and your gateway to some of the best hiking in the country. Despite it being named the trekking capital of Argentina, not much is known about El Chalten, in fact, most locals have never even heard of it. Regardless of its popularity, El Chaltén is a must see for any traveler coming to Argentina and arguably one of the best backpacker towns in all of South America.

Although many say El Chaltén was founded in the 1980’s, its history extends much further than that. Prior to European colonization, this area was occupied by the Aónikenk people, also referred to by the Tehuelche. Aónikenk were hunter-gathers and so tall in stature that the Spaniards referred to them as “Patones”, which translates to large footed. This area, as well as much of the most southern regions of South America later became known as “Patagonia”, the land of the giants.

How to get to El Chaltén:

Take a flight to El Calafate. (3 hours from Buenos Aries). You could also take a bus, but be advised that this ride is 24 hours if coming from Buenos Aries!
From El Calafate take the bus to El Chaltén. You can take a bus straight from the airport, which leaves at 8:00 AM, 1:00 PM, 4:30 PM, 6:00 P.M, and 6:30 PM. The price is about 800 pesos. When you exit the airport, you will see the ticket booth immediately to the left of baggage claims. If you happen to miss the bus, like I did, you’ll have to pay around 3500 pesos for the ride there. It takes about 2.5 hours to reach El Chaltén.

Where to stay in El Chaltén:

El Chaltén is a very small city, so it really doesn’t matter where you stay, as you’ll be in walking distance to much of the “city center” and starting points of the treks.

How much time should you spend in El Chaltén?

I spent 4 days and 5 nights in the city, which was just about right; however, I understand not everyone will have as much time. At the very minimum, I’d try to spend 3 full days here. 99% of people coming here will want to hike Laguna Torre and Fitz Roy, which are both nearly 10 hours journeys start to finish. I hiked both trails on consecutive days, and by the 3^rd day, I was too exhausted to do much of anything. Having that 3^rd day allows you to rest and recover.

When is the best time to visit El Chaltén?

According to most websites, October to April is the best time to visit. I went in the first week of December, which was perfect. Long days, sunny blue skies, low crowds, and warm temperatures throughout the daytime.

What to do in El Chaltén?

See Laguna Torre

Laguna Torre is a lake located in Los Glaciares National Park with some of the best views you’ll ever see. From your hostel/hotel/apartment, you can easily walk to the park entrance. Just ask a local and they’ll point you in the right direction. The park is completely free of charge.

The hike is about 18 km total (9 each way). Much of the trail is easy going, not too strenuous until the end. It should take about 8 hours total, depending on how long you rest. It took about 11 hours total for me, as I spent a lot of time resting at the lake and taking photos along the way.

The trail is extremely easy to follow; there is absolutely zero need for a tour guide.

2) Hike Fitz Roy

This is the grand finale! No trip to Patagonia is complete without seeing Fitz Roy. Like Laguna Torre, the hike is about 8 or so hours total, likely more. Unlike Laguna Torre, Fitz Roy is a bit more intense, so you’ll need to be in some kind of shape to hike this. The last kilometer is a killer.

There are multiple entrances to Fitz Roy: one in the city center and another about a 20 minute car ride away. If you opt for the entrance that’s 20 minutes away you’ll save a lot more time as you’ll skip a lot of the beginning of the hike, which is tough. If you do opt for the secondary entrance you’ll need to notify your hotel, so they can arrange for a bus to pick you up, which costs around 300 pesos.

I won’t sit here and detail the hike, as it is completely unnecessary. The path is easy to follow and it’s nearly impossible to get lost.

Recommendations for hiking in El Chaltén

Wear sunscreen: This is important. I was naïve thinking I didn’t need it because I am Black lol. No matter how cool the weather is, the sun is intense and you’ll need protection.

Bring food: You’ll burn a lot of calories along the way. Ensure you have the energy to finish. Trail mix, fruit, and sandwiches are a good start.

Bring spare camera batteries: These hikes are so photogenic; you’ll be surprised at how fast you run through your battery.

Try drinking fresh water: When you pass bridges on both hikes, you’ll see rivers where you can refill your water bottles. The water is completely fresh and safe to drink. I had over a gallon without any issues; however, do so at your discretion. If you have any doubt, just bring bottled water.

I drank from this very stream. You’ll see this around the halfway mark.

Use hiking sticks: Personally, I didn’t use any, but it doesn’t hurt to have them, especially If you have bad knees.

Bring multiple layers: At some point in the hike you’ll be extremely hot and just want to walk with a t shirt or long sleeve shirt on. The next minute you’ll be walking and the weather will change in the blink of an eye. I put my jacket on and off so many times I couldn’t keep count.

Hiking shoes: I would advise against hiking in tennis shoes; there are too many rocks that will ruin your shoes.

Bring toilet paper/wet wipes: Self explanatory.

What time should you begin your hikes?

Very early (before 8) or late (after 12). If you start your hike from 8-11 AM, you can expect larger crowds when you finally reach your destination. The days in Patagonia are quite long (10 pm sunset in December), so you have enough time. If you reach Fitz Roy or Cerro Torre around 4-5 PM, you can be sure you’ll be one of the few people there.

At the top of Fitz Roy at around 4PM, just a few people here 🙂

Other things to note:

There is one ATM in the city right next to the bus station. Rumors are that is runs out of cash often, so I wouldn’t rely on it. Bring all the cash you need from El Calafate or the city you’re coming from.

Vegan? No problem. There is a vegan restaurant in El Chaltén called Curcuma. Be prepared to spend almost double the price of a normal meal in Argentina however.

That should cover most of it….enjoy! 10/10!