Backpacking in Lalibela, Ethiopia

Never in my wildest dreams did I think I would be backpacking in Lalibela, Ethiopia and celebrating the New Year in a random village there. Up until that day, I had spent each New Year with friends and family, but this New Year’s was different.

I woke up early on New Year’s Eve, I had seen everything I wanted to see in Lalibela, so I wanted to spend this day relaxing. I walked down the street from my hostel searching for an authentic Ethiopian breakfast and I found a small, but crowded place filled with locals. After checking out the menu I decided to enter.

As I took my seat, I was greeted by a group of locals next to me. They shouted, “Hello my brother, where you come from?” I replied, “America.” They smiled and invited me to sit and eat with them. Normally, I would refuse such a request, but in Ethiopian culture, it is the norm to share with others, so I went without hesitation. I ordered additional food and the locals began bombarding me with questions about America and my thoughts on Ethiopia.

Eventually, we dug into deeper topics such as the role of Christianity in Africa, blackness, and American foreign policy. I was amazed at how well-informed the gentlemen were despite being from this tiny town without much access to the outside world. As we finished our meals, the gentlemen ask me what my plans are for the day and I reply “Actually, nothing today.” They then invite me to their house for some coffee and I gladly accept.

Getting the Local Experience

Walking to their home, I was a bit hesitant, the traveler in me wondered if this was a trap to extort money or some plot to kidnap an American. I had told the men I was free for the day, so I couldn’t turn back now without a proper excuse, so I continued on. 20 minutes later, we reached their home. It was a small and cozy looking village. I entered their home and took a seat on the floor with the rest of the guys. They throw a plastic bag on the floor filled with what looked like green leaves. I curiously examine the bag and ask what it is. Everyone laughs and say it’s kaat (a herbal simulant plant popular in East Africa and Middle East). Not being the experimental type when it comes to this type of stuff, I politely refuse.

Later, we began to talk about tourism and these guys shared their experiences with European women traveling to Ethiopia. They talked about their popularity with the ladies, especially the older crowd. One gentleman told me a story of how an older Dutch woman proposed to him after a few months of dating and brought him to the Netherlands. He went on to talk about the woman and how she showered him with money and a good life, but in spite of that, he never truly felt at home. I found it shocking how he walked away from life in Amsterdam, only to return to live in a small village.  In a sense, my respect for him grew after hearing this. They went on with their stories as we drank coffee and smoked shisha. These men later offered me the opportunity to “try” an Ethiopian woman, but I kindly refused.

Around 4:30, I went for a hike with one of the men and climbed to the top of a hill where you could see an entire view of Lalibela. It was beautiful, I sat at the peak for 30 minutes just soaking in the moment.

We finish hiking and the man asks me if I would like to go visit his family’s village. I accept, and we plan to meet at 8 in front of my hostel after I shower, eat dinner, and rest.

A New Year Experience

8 o’clock comes and I meet the guy in front of my hostel. We walk down the dusty street and jam pack into a van with a group of other people. The ride is uncomfortable, but eventually we reach our destination after 40 minutes or so. I enter this village wondering where the hell I am, but I assume I’m in safe hands.

I enter his house and I am greeted by his mother and family members.

His mother prepares me a meal which consists of a hard piece of bread, smashed peas, and a fermented Ethiopian alcoholic beverage. Unfortunately, the meal was terrible, including the drink. It was one of the most awkward moments for me. Being watched by a group of strangers as I ate made me feel like a lion at the zoo. I smiled and courageously finished the food.

10:00 rolls around and I tell my friend I need to leave. He pulls me outside and asks me to give him some money to buy some wine, which cost around $30. At this moment I told myself “I knew this was too good to be true. Nobody was going to go through all of this out of the kindness of their heart.” I tell him I don’t have any cash on me, and he replies that I can buy it at the airport and his friend in Addis Abada will pay me back there once he picks it up.

Obviously, I knew this was a scheme, so I kindly tell him no. I take the van back to Lalibela and he follows me all the way to my hostel. Determined to get this guy to go away, I tell him I’ll get him a gift. I come back with a t-shirt and an American dollar bill, which satisfies him. He goes back home and it’s an hour until midnight. I sit outside and watch the stars in this pitch-black town until the clock strikes 12.

At 12:00, I did not hear a single peep, I sat in darkness alone wondering why there were no celebrations. It was not until later that I realized Ethiopians celebrate the New Year on a different date. I continued to sit outside reflecting on how great 2014 was and how excited I was for 2015. Though I was lonely on this New Year’s Day, I felt at peace in the quiet darkness of Lalibela. It was indeed one of the most random days I’ve ever had, but one I will always remember.