Backpacking Hopkins, Belize: A Hidden Gem

Most people have never heard of Hopkins, Belize, and for those that have, it’s likely not on your to-do list in Belize. Hopkins isn’t heavily promoted like other destinations in the country, but I’d argue that it is Belize’s greatest hidden gem.

Short History on the Garifuna of Hopkins

Hopkins is a unique small town populated by the Garifuna people. The Garifuna are descendants of West African, Central African, Island Carib, and Arawak people.

It is said that Spanish ships carrying West African slaves (likely Nigerian) found themselves ship wrecked in 1635 on the island of St. Vincent. The slaves escaped and found refuge among the local Carib-Arawak people. Eventually the groups intermarried, creating what is known as the Garifuna people.

In 1765, the French defeated the Garifuna people on St. Vincent and ultimately forced them off the island where they eventually occupied parts of modern-day Belize, Guatemala, Honduras, and Nicaragua. The Garifuna are extremely friendly and proud of their heritage.

Getting there…

First, you’ll need to take the bus to Dangriga from any major city in Belize. From Belize City it takes 3 hours and costs $10. The buses leave hourly starting from 6:30; however, always double-check the bus schedule as this changes often.

From Dangriga, you can take a shuttle bus to Hopkins, which departs twice a day at 10:30 am and 5:15pm. The next best option is to share a taxi other travelers bound for Hopkins. My friend Kendrya and I did this with two German backpackers and paid $40 USD total for the four of us.

A Chill Small Town

It took about 40 minutes until we reached Hopkins. My immediate impression was that Hopkins felt more like the Caribbean rather than a Central American country.

We searched for a hotel on arrival and found a great deal on the beach for just $25 a night. On top of that, we were literally 10 seconds away from the beach.

Most travelers here rent motorbikes to cruise around town or engage in various activities from snorkeling to windsurfing. Kendrya and I decided to skip all that and walk around to get to know the local people.

The President

As we strolled around the town, we came across a souvenir shop owned by a man named Marlon who is known by locals as “The President.” Marlon was extremely kind and shared his knowledge of Hopkins and its history with us. Hearing him speak, I quickly realized why locals referred to him as “The President.” He had a very humble, diplomatic way of communicating.

Kendrya couldn’t help but notice a set of reversible black and white dolls sitting on the shelf. Marlon informed us that the white colonial settlers would often take white dolls from Black children and give them to White children. In response, locals developed a reversible doll. When Whites came around, Black children would flip the doll to the black side to avoid getting their doll taken away. Inspired by his story, she purchased one. The locals in Hopkins make these and everything else in the shop, so make sure you support the local economy if you’re in Hopkins!

Later, we came across a basketball court. I ended up playing a pick up game with the locals. Everyone on the court showed a great deal of love and genuinely seemed interested in our reasons for coming to Hopkins.

After a few games, we left for dinner and made our way back to the hotel. The sunset in Hopkins was incredible that day.

Day 2

The next morning I woke up around 7:00 to enjoy the sounds of the beach. I wanted to take advantage of this time to just sit and reflect on life. I don’t know why, but each country I visit, I always take the time out to find a relaxing spot and just think about how much of a privilege it is to travel.

Around 10, Kendrya and I went to grab breakfast at Innies, a restaurant EVERY local person recommended we visit. We tried going the day before, but it was closed, so we were determined to catch it on our last day in Hopkins, and Innies did not disappoint. We both ordered some omelets, beans, and a type of local bread on the side. The combination didn’t sound too appetizing, but the owner insisted that we try it and we were glad she did.

The owner of the restaurant was a pleasant woman with a real down to earth vibe. The minute we walked into the restaurant, she took care of us like we were her own children.  That’s the beauty of the locals in Hopkins, everyone treats you with incredible hospitality.

Getting to Know the Locals

In the afternoon we came across an African-American man from Los Angeles that migrated to Belize in the late 80’s, which I found interesting given the condition of Belize during that time. He went on to talk about the stress of living in the U.S as a Black man and how Belize, but more specifically Hopkins, gave him a peace of mind.

He went on to discuss the recent influx of Chinese shopkeepers in Hopkins and the level of anti-Blackness he felt they displayed within the community. The others around him nodded in agreement about the general lack of respect. He further voiced his opinions about Americans, Canadians, and Europeans buying up all the property in Hopkins. The man spoke with such a great deal of passion that I felt sympathy for his community upon hearing him speak.

He later departed for work and thanked us for speaking with him.

For the rest of the day, Kendrya and I walked around listening to the stories of the local people, each with their own unique background. Hopkins was unlike any place I’ve ever been to, the spirit and warmth of the locals made you feel at home and it is one place that left a long-lasting impression on me.

Much respect to Hopkins, Belize and a must visit if you are in the country!