Backpacking Togo

Years ago, I took an Ancestry DNA test and found out I have roots in Togo. Naturally, I began to do more research, which led to my trip here. After all, why not visit the motherland? Togo is a small French speaking (despite being colonized by Germany initially) nation in West Africa, which borders Benin, Burkina Faso, and Ghana. Not much is known about Togo, as it is often overshadowed by its neighbor, Ghana, but it’s definitely worth seeing if you’re in West Africa.

What to see in Togo

Lomé: Voodoo Market

The capital and your starting point in the country if you arrive by air. The capital is pretty developed and there is great accommodation; I stayed at Hôtel 2 Février Lomé, which I highly recommend.

Lomé itself doesn’t have a lot to offer, but one place in particular I found of interest was the Akodessewa Fetish Market, which happens to be the largest voodoo market in the world. The market features monkey heads, skulls, dead birds, crocodiles, skins and other products of dead animals. Customers come to the market to consult with the voodoo priest and the priest tells you which animal part to purchase depending on your aliment. These animals can be ingested or used topically……Now, I know what you’re thinking, “What a cruel place, how could they kill innocent animals?” Have no fear. You’ll be happy to know that these animals are not killed for purposes of voodoo. My guide informed me that all the animals sold at the market pass naturally, as it is forbidden to slaughter animals to sell at this market.

If you visit you might as well stop on by and have a consultation with the voodoo priest. He can allegedly help you find a spouse, protect your family, bring you success, etc. It’s worth a shot I guess.

Northern Togo

Perhaps the most fascinating region of Togo is the north. Getting here is a bit challenging however, as it is a 7-hour journey from Lomé, but it is a must see. In particular, Tamberma Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage Site famous for its mini castle-like homes. The Batammariba people of this region arrived around the seventeenth century in order to escape hostile tribes and European colonists. The tata, as these houses are called, consists of a cluster of mud structures—the typical house contains around eight—girdled together by a continuous mud wall.

The people of this valley live a simple life and practice animism, the belief that objects, places, and creatures all possess a distinct spiritual essence. 

Northern Togo is vibrant and full of nature. This is a chance to really relax and enjoy nature. Because of the long drive, you’ll need at least three days up here.  

How to get around?

Togo’s tourism industry isn’t as built up as other popular nations in Africa such as Egypt, Kenya, Tanzania, etc so getting around may be a challenge. For this reason, I went with Mowoki Tours, a tourism company I found via Instagram, which seems to be popular amongst the few that visit Togo. These guys are the real deal and made my journey in Togo that much more special. The founder of the company, Jeremies, accompanied me on my tour up north and was a great help, even inviting us to his family’s home along the journey. I highly recommend Mowoki Tours if you visit Togo. Aside from the north, Kpalime and Davedi are also worth checking out.

Overall thoughts?

Togo was a pleasant surprise; it exceeded my expectations for sure. West Africa is often associated with chaos, danger, filth, and destruction, the exact opposite of Togo. The people are warm and the country is beautiful. To finally return home, to the motherland, 200+ years later was the experience of a lifetime. Marcus Garvey once said, “A people without knowledge of their past history, origin and culture is like a tree without roots.” A quote that will forever resonate with me.