Backpacking Tajikistan – Traveling the Pamir Highway

“Tajik-ah-what?” “Why? “Where is that?” These are the responses I received when I told my friends I was traveling to Tajikistan for vacation. To be fair, I couldn’t blame them. When most people hear a country end in “Stan,” they immediately begin to associate that place with war, terror, and lawlessness. Of course, that isn’t the case with every country ending in Stan, and I set out to show my friends the opposite, and check off one of my bucket list goals – backpack the Pamir Highway.

The Pamir Highway is a road traversing the Pamir Mountains through Afghanistan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan with a length of over 1,200 km. It is the highlight of any trip to Tajikistan and one of the most unique experiences in Central Asia.

How do you travel to the Pamirs?

You have two opinions – do it yourself or hire a tour guide. I saw European backpackers traveling along the Pamir Highway via mountain bike, which I thought was crazy. The road is too rough and the journey is incredibly too long for that. Most folks will opt for the tour guide, which is what I did. You can easily find a tour company in Dushanbe upon arrival or online beforehand. I went with Panj Travel & Tours, a solid company I recommend. They will handle the GBAO permit for you. 

How much is the tour and how long should you go for?

I opted for 7 days, which I found to be appropriate; however, if you are limited on time, 5 days, in my opinion, is also ok. For my 7 day tour (solo), I paid $1773 and that included accommodation and breakfast. 

What to expect?

Each tour to the Pamirs will be more or less the same, especially if you’re doing a week. Obviously, those doing longer tours will see more, but be prepared to break the bank. Below is an overview of my 7 day tour. *Note much of the Pamir Highway is just riding in a car and stopping along the route in villages, hot springs, etc. It’s up to the traveler to tell the driver when to stop. 

Day 1: Dushanbe – Qalaikhumb

We left Dushanbe shortly after 9 and made our way to Qalaikhumb, a neat small town. There isn’t much to see in this town but if you walk around for a bit, locals will approach you (if you look visibly foreign) and strike up, or at least attempt to, a conversation. 

Day 2: Qalaikhumb – Khorog

Incredibly scenic drive to Khorog. My driver’s family lived along this route, so he was kind enough to take me to his house and have lunch. 

Day 3: Khorog – Vrang

You’ll check out a hot spring and see Yamchun Fort. This was my favorite day during the week-long journey. I spent much of my day hanging out with locals. I saw a couple of farmers in this lush green field and just told the driver I wanted to stop there. 

Day 4: Vrang – Langar

Langar is a cool town and the route there is very scenic. On this day, I went to a farm and sampled tons of apricots, plums, peaches, and apples, and I drank fresh water from the mountain. It’s the simple things in life that bring you happiness. 

Day 5: Langar – Yashilkul lake – Jelondi

On this day, you’ll see two beautiful lakes and a side of Tajikistan that looks more like Kyrgyzstan. Later, you’ll make your way to Jelondy Hot Spring Spa and Hotel; you’ll even have a hot spring in your room! 

Day 6: Jelondi – Rushon

Incredible day, definitely my second favorite on the trip. Rushon district is a lovely area with a stunning layout. I could’ve spent the entire day by the river here, it was that peaceful. 

Day 7: Rushon – Dushanbe

A long 10-hour drive back to Dushanbe! Since you’re going back, you’ll see the same road you saw getting there. 

Tips for the Pamir?

• Definitely get a SIM card before you head out. The signal will be spotty, but there will be a few nights where your accommodation will not have Wi-Fi.
• Bring your own snacks. Tajik food can get boring quick; it’s a lot of meat and bread.
• Assuming you’re coming in the summer time, bring a light jacket, you’ll need it at night.
• Memory cards + batteries : you’ll take a lot of pictures and videos.
• Money. There are no ATMs in the Pamir after the 1^st day. $150 should be good for 7 days.

Overall thoughts?

The Pamir Highway lived up to my expectations, and I highly recommend it, especially for those looking for adventure. What impressed me most was the hospitality of the Pamir natives. I cannot count how many times I was given fruit, tea, snacks, and meals. Locals have no fear in inviting travelers to have a cup of tea and a meal in their home, even with the language barrier. One thing I’ll never forget about Tajikistan is how welcomed the people made me feel.