Traveling Though Latvia

Latvia was the second stop on my Baltic journey. I took a bus that departed Tallinn at 8:30 AM, arriving in Riga just before 1:00 PM. As soon as I arrived, I could immediately feel the remnants of the Soviet era—locals speaking in Russian, the architecture, and the general lack of smiles. It was a sharp contrast to its neighbor, Estonia.

I spent 3 days in Riga, the capital of Latvia, covering much of the city. Unlike many travel blogs that try to cram in endless recommendations for the sake of content, I’ll keep it short and simple—there’s just not much to see or do in Latvia, especially in the winter when all the beach activities are off the table. That said, it doesn’t mean the country is boring; it’s just that, if you’re well-traveled, there might not be much that will blow you away.

What to see in Riga?

1) Art Nouveau District

Riga is famous for its Art Nouveau architecture, and Alberta iela is the best street to see it in all its glory. These buildings are intricate, ornate, and make for good photos.

2) Riga Museum of the History of Riga and Navigation

This museum is actually housed in one of the most impressive buildings in Riga—the former Dome Cathedral School, which is located just near the Art Nouveau district. It’s a bit of a mix between history and culture, showcasing how life evolved in Riga and the surrounding area over the centuries.

This museum offers a deep dive into Riga’s past, including the medieval period, the city’s rise as a major port and hub for trade, and it includes exhibits on everyday life, from the medieval era to the modern day.

3) House of the Blackheads

The House of the Blackheads is one of the most iconic landmarks in Riga, Latvia, and my favorite place in the country. Located in the heart of Riga’s Old Town, it is a stunning example of Renaissance architecture, built in the 14th century. The building was originally constructed for the Brotherhood of Blackheads, a guild of unmarried German merchants and sailors in Riga, who were known for their charitable work and trade activities.

Once you enter the House of the Blackheads, you’ll quickly notice images of a Black man plastered throughout the house—an interesting sight for me as an African-American. It immediately caught my attention: what would a Black man be doing in a historical house all the way in Latvia? I had no idea about the significance of the House of the Blackheads before I arrived, but as I explored further, I quickly learned that this was no ordinary man.

The figure I was seeing was none other than Saint Maurice, a legendary figure whose image and story have played a central role in European history. Saint Maurice, originally from Thebes in Egypt, was the leader of the Theban Legion, a group of Christian soldiers who were martyred for refusing to abandon their faith during the Roman Empire’s rule.

The Brotherhood of Blackheads, a guild formed in Riga centuries ago, took its name from Saint Maurice, whose portrayal as a Black man made him an unusual yet powerful symbol in medieval Europe. His story of faith, leadership, and martyrdom resonated so strongly that it influenced the naming of the guild. The presence of Saint Maurice’s images in the House of the Blackheads is a reminder of this deep historical connection, reflecting how diverse and multicultural the early European world was, even in its most significant institutions.

4) Museum of the Occupation of Latvia

This museum is dedicated to Latvia’s history during the 20th century, focusing on the Soviet and Nazi occupations of Latvia, which had a profound impact on the country.

Soviet and Nazi Occupation: The museum provides an in-depth look at Latvia’s struggles under the control of both the Soviet Union (from 1940-1941 and again after WWII) and Nazi Germany (1941-1944). It covers life under occupation, including the deportations, forced labor, and the suppression of culture and identity.

5) Old Town (Vecrīga)

Riga Old Town (Vecrīga) is the historic center of Riga, the capital of Latvia, and it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its unique blend of architecture. Riga Old Town is packed with cobblestone streets, colorful buildings, cultural landmarks, and a vibrant atmosphere.

If you’re traveling in December, be sure to check out the Christmas market. Though not as impressive as Tallinn’s, it’s still a must-see for any traveler. Who couldn’t use another Christmas market?!

6) St. Peter’s Church Tower

The church itself was built in the 13th century in a Gothic style, though the current tower was rebuilt in the 18th century. It has been rebuilt and renovated several times throughout history due to fires and damage. Visitors can climb to the top (or take the elevator) to reach the observation platform. From here, you get 360-degree views of the Old Town, the Daugava River, and even the surrounding countryside on clear days.

Overall Thoughts

My takeaway on Latvia is pretty much the same as my experience in Estonia. It’s a cool place, but probably not somewhere I’d return to on its own. If you’re doing a Euro tour, it’s definitely worth a stop, but would I recommend someone fly all the way from Tokyo or New York just to visit Latvia? Probably not — there just isn’t enough to make it a standalone destination.