Backpacking in Sudan

When I tell my friends I went backpacking in Sudan, the response I usually get is, “Sudan? Why?” Like most people, I had limited knowledge of Sudan; my image was entirely shaped by the mass media. When I envisioned Sudan, I thought about rebels on the back of pick up trucks riding with long rifles, and hungry children roaming the streets.

My experience was far from that, in fact, it was the opposite. When I arrived in Khartoum it was probably the most peaceful city I ever set foot in. Wherever I went, I was greeted with the Arabic words “As-salām ‘alaykum.” I truly felt at home in this foreign land.

Contrary to what most people think, Sudan isn’t dangerous unless you’re near the southern border. Sudanese people are very hospitable and welcoming to all. Don’t let what you hear deter you from visiting Sudan.

When to go?

November to March. Sudan is hot, no surprise there. I went in December, which was pleasant, a bit hot during the day but very cool at night. May to September is probably the worst time to visit due to the extreme temperatures during the day.

What to wear?  

When you arrive in Sudan, you’ll notice that most people are wearing jellabiyas, a type of traditional Sudanese wear. You can get one pretty much anywhere, or custom-made if you wish to spend more money. A jellabiya will keep you pretty cool during the hot days in Sudan and is also quite fashionable!

Visa?

Practically everyone (except a few select countries) needs a visa to enter Sudan. Visas are expensive and quite difficult to obtain depending on your nationality. You’ll need to fill out an application, submit two photos, submit a letter from a sponsor with copies of their ID, and submit your payment (varies by country).

I went to the Sudanese Embassy in Seoul, South Korea and dropped off my application, some photos, sponsor letter with a copy of their ID, and fee.

I was able to pick up the visa just a few weeks later.

Unfortunately, Sudanese visas are only single entry.

• The Government of Sudan routinely denies entry visas to travelers whose passports contain visas issued by the Government of Israel or other evidence of travel to Israel, such as exit or entry stamps.
• Visitors must register at the Ministry of Interior within three days after arriving in Sudan (many hotels will do this for you, so check with them)

Backpacking Sudan Tips

Money

To be on the safe side, bring U.S dollars to Sudan as this is the easiest currency to exchange. The British Pound and Euro will likely work too. Visa and MasterCard have no bank presence in Sudan, so your credit card will not work here (Sudan is also not a cashless society).

Photos

Sudan is a strict country and visitors will need a permit to take photos and this excludes photos of military facilities, bridges,  slum areas, beggars, etc.

Where to visit

Unfortunately, travel in Sudan is a bit restricted. You will need a permit to go outside of Khartoum. Take a copy of your passport, visa, and one photo to the Ministry of Tourism and Wildlife. You’ll need to inform them where you intend to travel. The local police will check this permit wherever you go, especially if you look foreign.

I spent about 6 days in Sudan, hardly enough time, but truth be told, you don’t need much time in Sudan. The main thing you probably would want to see are the Pyramids of Meroe aka Nubian Pyramids. 

Contrary to what many believe, Sudan has twice as many pyramids as Egypt. These pyramids lie in the historical area of Nubia, which encompasses modern-day Southern Egypt and much of Sudan. The Nubians were a very advanced society with their own distinct language, culture, and traditions.

My father, driver, and I traveled to see the pyramids my second day in Sudan, the day before Christmas. We left Khartoum early in the morning, shortly before 6:30AM.

The journey to Meroe was on one long highway, but a rather scenic one. It was my first time in this type of climate, so I enjoyed seeing miles of empty deserts and camels.

We arrived in Meroe around 9:30 in the morning, it was a bit cold, but comfortable. To my surprise, there were 0 tourists in sight. Sudan itself has almost no tourism, but I expected the pyramids to attract a few. My father, driver, and I stood in vast desert alone soaking in the magnificent pyramid structures. The workers at Meroe were so used to not having tourists that many of the sites had to be opened for us to see. It was almost as if tourists came a few times a month.

The worker unlocked one site and we went down the stairs into a dark cave. When our guide turned on the flashlight, we saw hieroglyphics and paintings of pharaohs covering the walls. I was in awe being in the presence of the great art of the Nubian empire.

We continued forward, visiting each site one by one. Lucky for us, archeologists had just discovered a new site months prior to our visit, so we were one of the first people to see it.

Later, we came across a group of men on our journey who invited us over for some tea. Sudanese are some of the most hospitable people in the world. You can expect strangers to offer you a cup of tea at some point.

We continued forward visiting all the sites, each one unique in its own way. It took about 4 hours to see everything before we headed back.

If you’re in Sudan, you cannot miss these forgotten pyramids. Unlike Egypt, you don’t have to worry about herds of tourists in your way. The Sudanese pyramids are largely untouched and due to the lack of tourism, you’re generally free to get as close as you want. It’s as close to history as you can get.

Sudan was definitely far from anything I could’ve imagined. I enjoyed my time here and recommend you pay a visit if you’re already in East Africa, the pyramids alone are a reason to visit. Have any questions about backpacking in Sudan? Drop a comment below!