Backpacking in Mauritania: An Unforgettable Adventure

Mauritania? Where is that? You’re going there for vacation? Isn’t it dangerous? These were just a few of the questions my friends asked when I told them I was heading to Mauritania. Now, I’ll admit, Mauritania might seem like a random vacation spot. But as someone with the goal of visiting every country on earth, it’s all on my bucket list. Plus, it’s a lot easier to travel to places like Mauritania when you’re child-free and unmarried—might as well see it now.

I flew into Nouakchott, the capital, directly from Casablanca, Morocco. Considering there are only about 13 direct flights into Mauritania, it quickly became clear that getting here isn’t exactly easy. Mauritania is one of the least-visited countries in the world, and that was evident as soon as I started planning my trip. Finding a reputable tour guide proved to be much more difficult than I anticipated. Even when I did find some, their responses were so casual that I started questioning whether the companies were legitimate.

Eventually, I found a company to go with—Chinguitty Voyages. To be honest, I was nervous about wiring a 50% down payment after seeing their website. It was incredibly basic, and there just weren’t enough reviews to make me feel comfortable. The financial institution I used to send the money even called me for a fraud review. But I took a leap of faith—and it paid off. The company ended up being legitimate and very professional!

What to see in Mauritania 

The small number of travelers that do visit Mauritania typically come to ride the iron ore train in the middle of the desert. Personally, I had no interest in doing that; I was more so interested in the rural cities and historical aspect of the country. I only spent four days in country, so I had a pretty tight schedule. 

Day 1: Nouakchott to Terjit

We started the day at 8:00 AM and began our journey to Terjit, which is roughly 5-hour drive. Terjit is a cool little oasis tucked away in the desert of Mauritania, about 50 kilometers south of Atar. It’s known for its refreshing spring water that flows through a small palm grove, offering a nice break from the surrounding desert heat.

The place is surrounded by stunning rock formations and sand dunes, making it a perfect spot to chill, take a dip, or just enjoy the quiet beauty of the desert. If you’re looking for a peaceful escape in the middle of the desert, Terjit is definitely worth checking out. If you want to add to the experience, consider staying in the desert! 

Day 2: Terjit to Chinguetti 

Chinguetti was the highlight of my trip and the place I wanted to see most. Chinguetti is an ancient city in Mauritania, known for its rich history and impressive desert surroundings. It’s one of the country’s oldest cities and was once an important stop for travelers and traders crossing the Sahara. Today, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage site with beautiful, well-preserved old houses, narrow alleyways, and ancient libraries filled with centuries-old manuscripts. The desert around Chinguetti gives it an even more unique vibe, with towering sand dunes and stunning views. If you’re into history or just looking for an off-the-beaten-path spot, Chinguetti is definitely a place to check out.

Chinguetti holds a special place in Islamic history as a major center of learning and religious scholarship, particularly from the 11th to 16th centuries. The city was home to renowned scholars and housed rare, centuries-old manuscripts, including copies of the Quran and other religious texts. It was an essential stop for pilgrims traveling to Mecca for Hajj and was considered one of the “Seven Holy Cities” in Islam. With its rich tradition of religious authority and scholarship, Chinguetti played a key role in spreading Islamic teachings across the region. Today, it remains a symbol of Mauritania’s Islamic heritage, preserving both its historical significance and cultural identity.

Day 3: Chinguetti to Akjoujet (stop in Atar)

Atar is a small city in northern Mauritania, right in the heart of the desert. It’s got a pretty interesting history, as it was once a key stop for trade caravans crossing the Sahara. You can feel that old-world charm when you visit, with its mud-brick buildings and narrow streets, which have been around for centuries. The mix of Arab and Berber culture really stands out here, from the architecture to the local markets, where you can find all kinds of traditional Mauritanian crafts. While Atar itself isn’t a big tourist hub, it’s a great base for exploring the nearby desert attractions.

You’ll find an area known for its rock drawings near Atar. These ancient carvings are scattered across the desert landscape and offer a fascinating glimpse into the region’s past. They date back thousands of years and are thought to be created by early Saharan peoples, long before the desert was as arid as it is today.  The petroglyphs depict a variety of scenes, including animals such as cattle, camels, and giraffes, as well as human figures and abstract symbols. They serve as evidence that the region was once much wetter, supporting a diverse range of wildlife and human activity. Some of the images suggest that the area was home to ancient civilizations who relied on hunting, herding, and possibly even early agriculture. Visiting these rock drawings is a unique experience for those interested in history and archaeology, as it’s not a heavily touristy area, meaning you can explore the ancient art in peace. 

Day 4: Akjoujet to Nouakchott

Many tourists would likely agree that Nouakchott ranks among the less thrilling capitals globally. There’s not much to do beyond a day’s visit, which is why I decided to spend just a few hours here before my afternoon flight back to Casablanca. I made a quick stop at the National Museum of Mauritania and visited the fish market. Honestly, neither spot was particularly captivating, but if you’re in town, you might as well see something. 

Thoughts

Overall, I had a great time in Mauritania, and much of that had to do with my tour guide. From the moment I arrived, my guide Boubacar made all the difference. Not only was he knowledgeable about the country’s rich history and diverse culture, but he also had an incredible ability to make the trip feel personal. Whether we were navigating the bustling streets of Nouakchott or exploring the vast desert landscapes, he ensured that every stop was meaningful.

One of the highlights was visiting the ancient city of Chinguetti, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Boubacar provided insights into the history of the city that I never would have discovered on my own. His stories about the role of Chinguetti as a center of knowledge and religion in the past brought the dusty ruins to life. We also ventured into the desert, where he helped me understand the complexities of nomadic life and even invited me to his grandfather’s house.

Beyond the sights, Boubacar also made sure I had a taste of authentic Mauritanian hospitality. From sharing traditional meals to engaging in conversations with locals, I felt more like a guest than a tourist. This personal touch really elevated the experience, turning what could have been just a trip into something unforgettable.

If you’re planning a trip to Mauritania, I highly recommend finding a good guide. It’s a country that, while stunning and unique, can be challenging to navigate without local knowledge. Having someone who knows the ins and outs of the culture, history, and logistics makes all the difference. With the right guide, Mauritania’s beauty and intrigue will shine through in ways you might not expect.